You don't need a full pro shop, but a mid-drive install has three specialty tools most people don't already own. Buy or borrow them before you start — improvising here is how parts get damaged. A front-hub install needs far less (see the note at the end).
Gather everything below before you remove a single bolt.
The tools
💡 Tip: the front-hub kit needs only basic tools.
- Crank puller (square-taper) — What it's for: Removing your existing crank arms — the puller threads into the crank and pushes it off cleanly. Never hammer crank arms off or you'll mushroom the spindle and ruin the crank. · Needed for: Mid-drive (front-hub skips)
- Bottom bracket tool that matches YOUR current bottom bracket — What it's for: Removing your current BB. Most bikes use a splined cartridge BB (Shimano-style, Hollowtech/BBT external splined tool); older bikes may have external cups or a different interface. Look at your BB before ordering; a photo to our support team will confirm it. · Needed for: Mid-drive (front-hub skips)
- Bafang lockring wrench (a.k.a. the Bafang/Luna wrench) — What it's for: Fits the Bafang M33 4-notch lockrings that clamp the motor to your frame. We sell it, and Luna Cycle makes one too. A standard adjustable spanner rounds the notches easily; get the real wrench if you can. · Needed for: Mid-drive (front-hub skips)
- 15mm pedal wrench (or a thin 15mm open-end wrench) — What it's for: Removing your pedals. · Needed for: Mid-drive
- Metric hex/Allen key set (typically 2–8mm) — What it's for: Crank bolts, chainring bolts, display/throttle/brake clamps. · Needed for: Mid-drive
- Phillips and flat screwdrivers — What it's for: The speed-sensor screw, cable ties, and clamp screws. · Needed for: Mid-drive
- T20 Torx security bit — What it's for: Bafang's speed-sensor magnet screw. It ships with the kit; don't lose it. · Needed for: Mid-drive
- Chain tool — What it's for: Shortening/breaking the chain — you'll almost always re-size it after the chainring change. · Needed for: Mid-drive
- Torque wrench (roughly 5–50 Nm) — What it's for: The lockring and crank torques matter, and "gutentight" is how people strip threads. Strongly recommended. · Needed for: Mid-drive
- Blue thread locker (Loctite 242/243) — What it's for: The inner lockring, especially on 73mm shells. · Needed for: Mid-drive
- Grease (anti-seize or bike grease) — What it's for: The BB threads and spindle. · Needed for: Mid-drive
- Cable ties / zip ties and side cutters — What it's for: Routing the wiring harness. · Needed for: Mid-drive
- File or emery cloth (plus penetrating oil) — What it's for: Deburring the inside of the BB shell (see mid-drive Step 3); penetrating oil if you suspect a seized bottom bracket. · Needed for: Mid-drive
If you don't own the specialty tools and don't want to buy them for a one-time job, most bike shops will remove your cranks and bottom bracket for around $20–40 — a reasonable option if your BB turns out to be seized.
Supplement: the full Installation hub and the Mid-Drive (BBS02/BBSHD) install guide & video. 📎 Manuals (PDF downloads):- BBS02 / BBSHD Motor Manual
- DPC-18 Display Manual
- C961 Display Manual
- 500C Display Manual
- Gear Sensor Manual